Friday, July 11, 2025

Nonfiction: Tequila Wars by Ted Genoways

Growing up, there was a period of my life, about nine years or so, when my father owned and operated a liquor store. Having bartended in his 20s, my father knew a low about alcohol, alcohol sales, distribution, laws, etc. By proximity, I ended up learning a lot too, and would occasionally run the register at the store. And yes, it was strange for many of the patrons to walk up to the counter with their purchases and find a young girl standing there ready to ring them up. And despite not being much of a drinker now that I am an adult, I still hold on to a lot of that knowledge, which is what initially led me to look into Ted Genoways' Tequila Wars: José Cuervo and the Bloody Struggle for the Spirit of Mexico, as the author was part of this year's San Antonio Book Festival. 

Genre, Themes, History: This is a nonfiction book that mostly focuses on the life of José Cuervo, the man who inherited his family's distillery, and managed to nurture and cultivate it into the tequila empire we know the brand to be today. But as is detailed in Genoways' book, that growth did not come easily, as Cuervo's successes and setbacks were closely tied to the political turmoil of the country of Mexico during the late 19th and early 20th centuries. As president's were elected to power, and then plotted to hold onto their positions despite the country's constitution not allowing for a president to be re-elected, leading to inevitable uprisings and rebellions, Cuervo had to be strategic about who he supported, ultimately needing to be sure that whoever was in charge would allow his empire to grow unbothered, and with few taxes. Little has been known about Cuervo, and while the general belief was that he was a nice man, but not terribly great at business, Genoways' account attempts to set the record straight.

My Verdict: This book not only gives the reader a lesson on Cuervo, but also on the disorder and unrest that was Mexico's politics during his lifetime. Specifically during the later chapters of the book, many pages will go by without any mention of Cuervo as the nation's political players literally go to war over who will hold key positions of power. Through thorough research, which includes accounts from Cuervo's niece, readers are given rare insight into the man whose name so many of us are familiar with, but little is known about. Even after reading this book, there is still an heir of mystery to the man, who clearly had to navigate a difficult landscape in order to keep his business afloat, and often also to keep himself and his family alive. Genoways offered a fascinating history, which may lead readers to do more research on their own.

Favorite Moment: The story of how Cuervo ended up marrying his wife Ana is pretty humorous, and attests to his careful and often hesitant nature when making big decisions.

Recommended Reading: For more nonfiction, I recommend Custodians of Wonder by Eliot Stein. 

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